I was recently asked by a good friend and client Susan who writes the blog une femme d'un certain age to provide makeup tips & tricks to open a hooded eye. The steps follow. To clarify a hooded eye is an eye where the skin of the crease and brow bone area folds over the eyelid giving a heaviness to the eye particularly the outer portion of the eye. Here are the steps to help the eye appear more open and beautiful.
STEP 1 EVEN SKIN TONE
Using the Face & Eye Conceal brush and Eye Shadow Blend brush apply a light veil of Eye Shadow Magnet 02 | Natural for most skin types, 01 | Light for very fair skin. Start by circling in the inner corner of the eye and then sweep across the lid and up to the brow bone. Use gentle sweeping and circular motions back and forth over the entire eyelid from inner lash line to outer lash line, from lid, through the crease to the brows. This product is a cream that evens the color and gives shape to the eye, lifting any droop.
STEP 2 HIGHLIGHT
Using the Eye Shadow Apply brush, apply an eyeshadow to highlight the inner eye corner of the eye and under the eyebrow arch. A favorite eyeshadow to use, and the one used here is Naked Glow (satin texture) alternate satin or metallic eyeshadows will be Crystal, Flirt or Meringue. Matte textured shadows good for this will be Naked or Lace. For medium to darker skin tone Glorious, Gold Dust or Broadway will work great as highlighters. Apply using the tip of the brush with a circular motion into the inner corner of the eye, then brush lightly across the eyelid. Finish highlighting on the brow bone directly under the eyebrow arch. Highlighting draws attention away from the hooded crease.
tip & trick Use matte eye shadows for highlighting on textured skin. Satin and Metallic shadows will draw unwanted attention to mature possibly textured skin.
STEP 3 MINIMIZE HOOD
Sweep back and forth into the crease using the Eye Crease Blend brush with a medium toned matte eye shadow. Eye shadow used here is New Romance. Other medium tone shadows which can be used are, Jasmine, Earthen, Stone, Sahara and Coffee. Concentrate above the crease but don't go all the way to the brow. The skin that is above the crease is what is causing the hooded effect, so by using a medium shade of shadow you are camouflaging the hood effect.
tip & trick Blend eye shadow in layers. While looking in your mirror, add a small amount of eye shadow, layering more eye shadow creating more depth which will contour away the hood.
STEP 4 LINE EYE and ADD MASCARA
Apply eyeliner into the upper lash line. In other words, approach your eye with the eyeliner pencil upward towards the sky, working the eyeliner in-between the upper lashes start from the outer corner of the eye working towards the inner corner of the eye, if you add eyeliner all the way into the inner corner of the eye you will have a more dramatic effect. The eyeliner will frame the eye and draw attention away from the hooded eye. A new favorite eyeliner Pitch Black LongWear Indelible Eyeliner was used in this demonstration.